Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Rome 6

In Rome, churches are everywhere. Mostly, as I said earlier, they are relatively simple on the outside and stunningly opulent on the inside. One thing was true for all that we entered. SILENCE. No matter what the sound level of the street you step in from, the churches were silent. It is something that surprised me every time I stepped into one and brought to mind one word---sanctuary. The churches were often empty and sometimes had an attendant of some sort. They all had places to leave monetary offerings.
Speaking of offerings, of the few beggars we saw on the street, there was one group of individuals that stand out, the penitents. I'm not sure what the "official" term for them is, but it was clear that they were seeking penance for some sin, either personal or on behalf of the rest of us.
They were always dressed in black and on their knees but otherwise in submission,prostrate, face on the ground with arms outstretched as if praying. They said nothing and did not move. There would be a cup by their side. I remember seeing one with the lower half of her body in the street, between two parked cars. It struck me as yet another part of the parking problems in Rome.
One day, after ending up at the Vatican by chance, we started standing in line to enter. The line was very long due to security checks and extended for perhap 1/4 mile, making a half circle around the vatican courtyard, known as St. Peter's Square(it's actually an oval). This is the place where people wait for the puff of smoke when a new pope is selected and on occasion listen to the pope address the people.

We had tickets for the museum and Sistine Chapel, for the following day so after standing in line for awhile we decided to abandon the Vatican for that day. 
The Vatican
It was a good choice because it led to another chance to "get lost in Rome". 
The interior of the 142' diameter Pantheon dome
As I said before, Rome is constantly circling back on itself, and our stumbling led us gradually through high end shopping areas to The Pantheon. As usual, we followed small streets which opened into yet another piazza. But, this one held the Pantheon. Needing a little refreshment after our wandering, we sat in one of the many open air cafes' facing the Pantheon. These cafes' are the conduit through which the life blood of Rome flows. Yes, they have wifi and bathrooms. Yes, they usually cost a bit more than out of the way places, and YES, they are a very welcome sight. As we sat down and unwound with Bonnie's favorite, a Spritz and a beer for me, I checked my email. I had been communicating with my good friend Leslie Ross since being in Rome. Leslie is married to Paolo and they met in Rome, so she was a wonderful source for stories of romantic Rome. So, we are sitting there, facing the Pantheon and I open my email. It is from Leslie and she is telling me that we must see the Pantheon and why. Being an architect, Leslie quickly filled me in on facts about it's history and construction. Of course, due to the marvels of modern technology, I snapped a shot of the Pantheon from the perspective under the cafe canopy and emailed it to her on the spot. 
The Pantheon

After finishing our drinks, we made our way(me on slightly shaky beer legs) to this marvelous structure. The Pantheon dome is still today the largest brick dome ever built, made possible by the wonder of "Roman Concrete" and engineering. The interior of the dome appears to be concrete. (photo above)

The Piazza della Rotonda is the site of the Pantheon and of course it is a major tourist spot. As with many tourist attractions in Rome, the air was full of rock and roll. There would be a solo or two musicians with a "band in a box" set up. So, you would hear a full rock band endlessly playing familiar music.


I'm getting hungry---oh, to be in Rome and pop in somewhere for bread, wine and cheese. Perhaps a cappuccino would go well too. I guess I have culture shock. 



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