Rome 6

In Rome, churches are everywhere. Mostly, as I said earlier, they are relatively simple on the outside and stunningly opulent on the inside. One thing was true for all that we entered. SILENCE. No matter what the sound level of the street you step in from, the churches were silent. It is something that surprised me every time I stepped into one and brought to mind one word---sanctuary. The churches were often empty and sometimes had an attendant of some sort. They all had places to leave monetary offerings.

Speaking of offerings, of the few beggars we saw on the street, there was one group of individuals that stand out, the penitents. I'm not sure what the "official" term for them is, but it was clear that they were seeking penance for some sin, either personal or on behalf of the rest of us.

They were always dressed in black and on their knees but otherwise in submission,prostrate, face on the ground with arms outstretched as if praying. They said nothing and did not move. There would be a cup by their side. I remember seeing one with the lower half of her body in the street, between two parked cars. It struck me as yet another part of the parking problems in Rome.
One day, after ending up at the Vatican by chance, we started standing in line to enter. The line was very long due to security checks and extended for perhap 1/4 mile, making a half circle around the vatican courtyard, known as St. Peter's Square(it's actually an oval). This is the place where people wait for the puff of smoke when a new pope is selected and on occasion listen to the pope address the people.

We had tickets for the museum and Sistine Chapel, for the following day so after standing in line for awhile we decided to abandon the Vatican for that day. 

The Vatican

It was a good choice because it led to another chance to "get lost in Rome". 

The interior of the 142' diameter Pantheon dome

As I said before, Rome is constantly circling back on itself, and our stumbling led us gradually through high end shopping areas to The Pantheon. As usual, we followed small streets which opened into yet another piazza. But, this one held the Pantheon. Needing a little refreshment after our wandering, we sat in one of the many open air cafes' facing the Pantheon. These cafes' are the conduit through which the life blood of Rome flows. Yes, they have wifi and bathrooms. Yes, they usually cost a bit more than out of the way places, and YES, they are a very welcome sight. As we sat down and unwound with Bonnie's favorite, a Spritz and a beer for me, I checked my email. I had been communicating with my good friend Leslie Ross since being in Rome. Leslie is married to Paolo and they met in Rome, so she was a wonderful source for stories of romantic Rome. So, we are sitting there, facing the Pantheon and I open my email. It is from Leslie and she is telling me that we must see the Pantheon and why. Being an architect, Leslie quickly filled me in on facts about it's history and construction. Of course, due to the marvels of modern technology, I snapped a shot of the Pantheon from the perspective under the cafe canopy and emailed it to her on the spot. 

The Pantheon

After finishing our drinks, we made our way(me on slightly shaky beer legs) to this marvelous structure. The Pantheon dome is still today the largest brick dome ever built, made possible by the wonder of "Roman Concrete" and engineering. The interior of the dome appears to be concrete. (photo above)

The Piazza della Rotonda is the site of the Pantheon and of course it is a major tourist spot. As with many tourist attractions in Rome, the air was full of rock and roll. There would be a solo or two musicians with a "band in a box" set up. So, you would hear a full rock band endlessly playing familiar music.

I'm getting hungry---oh, to be in Rome and pop in somewhere for bread, wine and cheese. Perhaps a cappuccino would go well too. I guess I have culture shock. 

Florence

FLORENCE

We decided to go to Florence for a day trip. Both of us wanted to go, but since we were so set up in Rome, a day trip made the most sense. We went on a Saturday so Angela of Padua could meet us for the day. Angela and Bonnie are old friends from both the states and Italy so this was a good reunion for them. Angela is open and friendly, so we meshed easily.

After a smooth and comfortable 1.5 hr train ride, we disembarked to find Angela waiting for us on the platform. The modern security procedures in airports have done away with this type of arrival and departure, but the train still offers such simple pleasures.

First order of the day was lunch. After a quick consultation Angela led us to a place near the train station. In true Italian style, we enjoyed a leisurely 2 hour lunch. Both wine and conversation flowed freely and we enjoyed not only Angela's company but also a loud and loving table near ours, with grandparents, parents and babies.

Florence is the seat of the Renaissance and known worldwide for it's architecture and overall ambience. Even though we only had a few hours, we gulped as much Florentine flavor as we could. After lunch, the first stop was the "duomo". The photo below left is the "duomo". The photo below that is the inside of the dome. The photo below right is one of the doors.

every inch of the church is ornate

inside the dome

Angela of Padua and Bonnie of Louisville

The Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore is the main church of Florence, Italy. Il Duomo di Firenze, as it is ordinarily called, was begun in 1296 in the Gothic style to the design of Arnolfo di Cambio ...

 

The first of the 463 steps to the top of the Dome

Yet another beautiful church, but much more than that. Beside the fact that the pink and green marble is breathtakingly beautiful, the dome is an architectural wonder, not only of the time but still a mystery today.  

After a contest was held to find a builder back in the 13th century, a goldsmith who had NEVER BUILT ANYTHING was chosen to take on the project.

Filippo Brunelleschi was chosen and the work started in 1418 and it took until 1434 to complete. Brunelleschi started in 1420.

Even today the 149' dome is a mystery of construction. The dome has certainly withstood the test of time but one must wonder what "demons of doubt" this inexperienced builder must have faced.

Beside the fact that collapse was a possibility at all times and that the craftsmen were working hundreds of feet in the air, when they finally got to the top everything had to meet perfectly.

The other night, here in Louisville, we watched a documentary on the dome and an Italian architect named Massimo Ricci who is currently trying to reproduce the dome on a much smaller scale.

  

From the inside of the dome, one can easily forget about construction techniques and be overtaken by it's beauty. If one desires, you can take the very long and narrow stairway passage which spirals around the inside walls of the dome to the very top. We did not do it. One could write a whole book on the "duomo"and I'm sure many exist. 

But, with only one afternoon to spend, we missed much more than we saw. That said, what we saw was stunning. After quite awhile at the duomo and it's surrounding environs, we moved on toward the River Arno. Yes, we walked right past the famous Uffizi Gallery. Next time. 

Looking through the arch in front of Uffizi Gallery and across the Arno River

We arrived at the river just as the light of the day was fading into the night. As the lights of the streets and buildings at the rivers edge flicked on, the river became a jewel of reflection. To our right we saw the famous Ponte Vecchio.

The Arno River with Ponte Vecchio to the right

The Ponte Vecchio is so charming and fanciful it easily ignites ones imagination. The bridge itself is lined with shops cantilevered off the edges. One building just at the end of the bridge caught my attention more than the others. On the top was one of those sweet rooftop gardens that can only make one imagine sitting in the sunshine of a spring day, eating bread, olives, cheese and wine while breathing in the sweet river breeze from below. Yes, we will most definitely return to Florence.

Cantilevered shops on the Ponte Vecchio

Rooftop garden that ignited my imagination

After our lovely day we walked back to the train station for some refreshment, a few minutes more with Angela of Padua, and an emotional farewell between the two dear friends. Once again, the train platform provided the stage for hello's and goodbyes. Not long afterward, our train arrived and we boarded for a warm and sleepy return to our little haven on Via del Pelligrino.

We only used cabs a few times in Rome and the return trip from Florence was one of them. Sometimes, that little extra layer of luxury can make all the difference.